A paper bag waist is a cinched waistband that resembles a paper bag that has been tightened at the top, resulting in an extra fabric that puffs out above the waistband. In this tutorial for making paper bag waist pants, you get this effect by making an elastic casing just below the top edge. The paper-bag waist is an important style during the 1980s, with high waists and belts. It is a way of creating volume and texture, which was important in the styles of the period. It is flattering to a variety of body types, as it cinches the waist, emphasizing its shape, and creates an illusion of long legs.

Sewing pattern for the Paper bag waist pants with elastic waistband

What do you need to sew this pant and what do you need to know?

You need to know your waist measurement, hip measurement and length of the body rise (from waist to the seat). And you need a formal pant material or a medium-weight woven fabric like cotton, linen, or chambray to make this pants. 1 inch wide elastic in the length of your waist. You also need to know how to sew a straight stitch. Ofcourse, you do.

You can customise any of the measurement given below to your measurement. This is my disclaimer.

Pattern for the back leg 

A-C = 39.5″ A-E = J-H = 1/4 of Hip round + 1″ E-B = G-H = 1/12 of hip round – 1″ A-B = G-J A-J = 14″ =B-G (or seat length from waist) E-F= 2″ C-K = 5.5″

Pattern for the back leg 

A-C = 39.5″ A-E = J-H = 1/4 of Hip round + 1.5″ E-B = G-H = 1/12 of hip round – 1″ A-B = G-J A-J = 14″ =B-G (or seat length from waist) E-F= 2″ C-K = 6″

Add extra seam allowances to the pattern given above. When cutting the pant pieces, remember to cut parallel to the selvage. For the crotch line and waistline give 1/2 inch seam allowance and for the sides and inseam give 1 inch extra. Finish the edges.

Cut out 2 mirrored pieces of the front legs and 2 mirrored pieces of the back legs.

Start by sewing the 2 front legs by the crotch seam ; then sew the back legs together at the crotch seams.

Cut 4 pocket pieces – 6 inches by 11 inches. Keep one of the pocket pieces on top of the pant (front piece)

Start by sewing this pocket piece to the pant piece 3 inch from the top edge. The red line in the picture below is the stitching line.

Do the same with the back pants – same side. Basically we are adding a facing to the pocket area. Turn the facing to the inside. Sew the pocket pieces together (from the front leg and the back leg) at the sides and bottom.

Do the same thing with the other side of the pants too – everything the same. This way you get two pockets on either side. Now sew the side seams of the pants and the inseams. Remember not to sew the pocket opening shut.

Sew a facing along the waistline. Measure around the pant waistline and cut the waistband 1 inch extra. The width for the facing should be 4 inches. Keep the pants, right side out. Start sewing the waistband facing on the waistline edge. Fold the short edge to the outside as you start.

When you get the other edge of the waistline, overlap.

Bring up the facing.

Turn the facing to the back and sew it there. Sew a line 1 1/4 inches up from the stitching line. This will give you a casing for inserting elastic. Cut elastic around the same as the waist round or 3/4 of it. Insert 1 inch elastic through the casing.

When you sew the edges of the elastic together and also sew the hole shut, you will get a paperbag waist, because of the cinching effect of the elastic. Hem the legs of the pants.

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