This is a sewing tutorial to make a very comfortable pleated straight pants with a flat front waistband and an elastic waistband for the back
How to sew the Pants
Step 1 Cut out the pattern pieces for the body of the pant
Totally to sew the pants you need 4 pieces for the body of the pant, two waistband pieces and 1 1/2 inch wide elastic
To cut the front pieces of the pants, take two fabric pieces (length equaling the length of the pants you want (plus 2 inch for the hem and top edge seam allowance minus 2 inch for waistband which negates the whole thing))- width of the pieces should be equal to 1/4 of your hip round plus 2 inch
For the back pieces – the same length as the front pieces ; they will be a little wider – width of the pieces should be equal to 1/4 of your hip round plus 5 inch.
Keep the front pieces right sides together as you mark and cut. Same for the back pieces. This is essential to get mirrored pieces that can be sewn by the middle seam to form the front and back of the pants
The 2 Front pattern pieces are to be cut as follows
The 2 Back pattern pieces are to be cut as follows
These are your front pieces when kept side to side.
And the back pieces.
Step 2 Join the leg pieces
Keep the two front pieces right sides together. Sew them together along the crotch seam.
This is what you get – your front piece.
Do the same with the back pieces .
Step 3 Join the two pieces together
You will only be sewing the outer side seams of the front and back pieces together.
As in the picture, keep the two pieces rightsides together and join both the outer side seams.
Step 4 Sew hem
At this point you can sew the hem of the pants (or do it last, after everything is stitched).
If you are sewing the hem, open the seam allowance and turn down the bottom edge twice, first 1/2 inch and then 1 inch. Press.
Sew in place. As you fold the hem you should ensure that the inner seams will be aligned properly at the crotch – if it does not, adjust the hem accordingly – or else you will have to unpick the seams later.
Step 5 Sew inner leg seam
Sew the inner seam together – this will complete the body of your pants.
Step 6 Prepare the waistband
Cut out two waistband pieces in the dimensions given below. The smaller one is the front waistband and the longer one for the back elastic waistband
Step 7 Sew waistband.
Join the waistband pieces together at the short edges forming a tube.
Fold the waistband by the middle and press in place.
Turn it inside out. Keep the elastic on top of the longer- back waistband ( cut elastic to the length equalling half of your waist) Sew and join the elastic to the waistband on one seam joint of the waistband.
Stretch the elastic and join the other end to the other seam joint.
Fold the waistband over the elastic and top stitch along the edge of the elastic – this keep the elastic in place inside the waistband. You will have to the move the elastic to the back as you stitch – forming the gathered waistband for the back.
Front of the waistband
Step 8 Form the pleat
Fold and pin in place a pleat on either side of the top edge of the pant – fold 1/2″ and a little more – totaling just short of 1 1/2″ for each fold.
Double check that the front waistband you have matches the front of the pants.
Step 9 Join the waistband to the pants
Keep the waistband rightside down on the pant top edge and stitch in place.Find the middle of the front waistband and pin in place before stitching.Start from the middle seam for the front and back for accurate stitching.
Related posts : Other patterns for sewing clothes ; Sewing tutorial for easy pajama pants ; Sewing tutorial for bohemian pants; Sew men’s pajama pants with front opening
Hi
Wonderful tutorial, I’m fairly new to the sewing world.
I was wondering should G-H be bigger than 1″on the back part.
Sonia
Hi,
I liked the way of your explanation, it’s crystal clear with added pictures, please upload more patterns and designs of straight pnats.
Hi satina,
Also how to increase the seat in those who are a bit bigger side? As usually the crotch is what affects any pant making. Please give tutorial on that please. Thank you , Geetha KannanI enjoy seeing all the good work you do. wondering the measurement of -A to C in straight pant . How is this calculated ? Please explain .
Hi
Thank you for the tutorial, I can’t wait to try it out! I love the flat front style, but I’m not that keen on pleats. Do you know if it’s possible to make these pants without the pleats?
Thanks in advance.
Hi Emily
You can turn it inwards into a dart
Hi Debbie
You are right ; you can go up from A 3/4 to 1 inch on the back pattern
Hi Nerween
That is so sweet of you to say. Thanks. Hope I live up to the words
Sarina
dear sarina ,, is there any site of yours to tech us how to use Gerber accumark app for pattern making plz
and the important thing i wish i could be a friend of u on fb if u plz 🙂
Hi Nerween
No to the first question; as to the facebook page of the website –
Thank you Dear Sewguide!
The illustration and clear explanations you used here helped me to understand the topic perfectly. Once again, thank you and keep up the good work.
Love this step by step.
Thanks for this simple explanation of how it works.
(I note that the final pant photo erroneous shows the pleats reversed. )
@Kristina Humpleby–
Here is a link to her page with a tutorial about how to add in-seam pockets: //rosettanreedlaw.com/stitch-side-seam-pocket/
Thanks Diana , But that pocket would come on the side seams – for a pant the pocket would have to be cut a little on the top too. The pocket shown in this post would do I think, for her query – sew pajama pants
Hi, Kristina and Sewguide —
First of all, I would move the two easing pleats on the front maybe @ 1″ closer to front center seam (I would do this, even without adding pockets, as I think a more forward position better) and then I’d add a pocket into the side seam — or, into both side seams, if you prefer two pockets; either one or two, it’s easy to add pockets:
Decide what size and shape you want as your finished pocket. Cut out the pocket(s) to size and shape you desire, allowing seam allowance, of course. Sew the pocket itself closed (right sides together) at sides and bottom, leaving open the area at which your hand fits. Sew the side seam(s) of pants to just above and just below the place you’ll insert the pocket (s). Finally, insert into that seam as you close sides of pants, sewing into front and back seam allowances of pants. Press. (Before you close those pants side seams, you may want to do a top stitch on very edge of pocket(s) to help the seam allowances lay flat and look neat and sharp in your finished pants. I would do so.) Your pockets should be nearly invisible, as it’s an on-seam pocket you’ve created.
Thanks, Sewguide, for creating and sharing this pattern — and, for generously allowing your readers to ask questions and exchange ideas. Great attitude!
Hi Harriet
The placement of the pleats is as per your discretion. You should place it equidistant from the center seam on either side- that is the main thing you should be careful about and that the pleats should face each other. Thanks
Hi
Thank you so much for the wonderful tutorial. I am a newbie to sewing so I have a little confusion. How did you measure the point AC..10.5 inches. Is it a standard figure or is it calculated as per individual body measurement and if so, than how
Thanks
Hi MaryJune
AC is taken as standard – you can change as per your measurement – here is an article on taking body measurement
Hi Bailey
I leave 1/2 inch seam allowance