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Types of Fabric dyes and how to use them

A guide for understanding the various types of fabric dyes available and how to use them effectively and information on which types of fabric dyes work best for different dyeing methods
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Most of the fabric dyes that I have used offer very vibrant or long-lasting colors. But the fact that I used these dyes doesnot mean that I knew them by name. I didn’t know the specific names of these dyes or the details about using them properly.

Let alone the names, there are other specifics I should have known before I attempted dyeing, like which fabric dye to use for your particular purpose like tie dyeing, dip dyeing, polyester dyeing and the types of fabric that are compatible with specific dyes..Now I know.

And what I know is that different types of dyes are used for dyeing various types of fabrics because each type of dye has specific properties that make it suitable for certain materials.

Fabric dyeing usually happens during the textile production process, as fabric is made. But if you want to change the colour of a garment you already bought or the fabric you already have, you can do it easily at home.

Fabric dyes, the magic ingredient of fabric dyeing is available at shops everywhere. But which dye to buy? Let us checkout the different fabric dyes available.

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Types of Fabric Dye


Acid Dyes

This is a water-soluble anionic dye. Colour may run after some washes. It is not used on cotton fabrics. This is a very safe dye to use even at home. 

Acid dyes are used on these fabrics :

Acid dyes are usually used for dyeing protein fabrics wool fabrics, cashmere and silk. Man-made fabrics like polyester, nylon, rayon, acrylic can also be dyed with acid dyes.

Related post: Silk dyeing at home .

Azoic dyes

These are synthetic dyes that are primarily used for dyeing solid colors.

Azoic dyes are used on these fabrics :

This dye is used to dye cotton fabric and even for printing on cotton. It is also used for dyeing silk and wool. Basically it is used for dyeing natural fibers including linen and rayon.

Basic dyes/Catonic dyes

This is an economical synthetic dye that creates vibrant colors. May bleed, and has little colorfastness.

Catonic dyes are used on these fabrics :

It is basically used for dyeing synthetic fibers, especially those made from thermoplastic polymers like polyester, acrylic, acrylic fleece or faux fur.

Disperse dyes

These dyes are specifically designed to bond with synthetic fibers through a process of sublimation

Disperse dyes are used on these fabrics :

This dye is used for dyeing synthetic fabrics like Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, and acetate. It is long lasting.

Mordant dyes

Dyes with excellent colour adherence. But not as bright as acid dyes.

Mordant dyes are used on these fabrics :

This dye can be used for dyeing fabrics like polyester, nylon, rayon, acrylic wool and silk.

Reactive / Fiber reactive dyes

This is the most preferred dye. It gives nice bright colours which last for a long time – it is renowned for its excellent color retention, washfastness, and lightfastness. It is an expensive dye compared to other dyes.

Fiber reactive dyes are used on these fabrics :

The reactibe dyes are used for dyeing cellulosic fibers, and other plant-based materials – wool, silk, all cellulose fibers, like cotton, rayon, hemp, linen, Tencel, Modal, and bamboo.

Sulfur dyes

Sulfur dyes give mostly dull colors but it is very inexpensive. It is also used for printing.

Sulphur dyes are used on these fabrics :

This is usually used to dye cotton fabrics and other natural & man-made cellulosic fibres. Sulfur dyes give mostly dull colors but it is very inexpensive. It is also used for printing.

Vat dyes

Vat dyeing is the name of the process of dyeing. Vat dyes are insoluble in water (or most other solvents) but they become soluble during the vat-making process, which can be complicated. Colour doesnot wash away fast. Indigo dyeing is an example of vat dyeing.

Vat dyes are used on these fabrics :

Cotton and cellulosic fabrics.

Natural dyes

This refers to dyes derived from plants, invertebrates, or minerals. Most of the natural dyes used are vegetable dyes derived from root, leaves, barks, trunks & fruits.

It is usually used to dye natural fabrics.

Learn more about dyeing fabric with natural dyes here.

Hot water Dyes & Cold water Dyes

Coldwater dyes are used to dye cotton fabrics. A fixing agent (like soda ash) has to be used along with cold water for dyeing. Coldwater dyes do not work well with polyester. Hot water dyes are used to dye natural fabrics as well as synthetics and are used with hot water of temperature 130-150ºF

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Selecting the dye

Other than the suitability to the fabric, there are many elements that should be checked when selecting the fabric dye – good fastness to washing and low or no sensitivity to fading when exposed to sunlight or chemicals like bleach. The dyeing should be accomplished without it having any effect on the tensile strength of the fabric.

Which dyes are used for tie dye?

Direct dyes, and reactive dyes can be used for tie dyeing on cotton, linen, rayon, and other cellulosic fabrics. Acid dyes are used on wool, and silk. Disperse dyes can be used on polyester and nylon

Which dyes are best for Nylon?

Acid dyes, Disperse dyes and Mordant dyes can be used on Nylon fabric.

Which dye is best for silk?

Acid dye is best for dyeing silk

Related posts : How to create cool tie dye patterns on fabric50 different methods to embellish and decorate fabric

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Author: Sarina Tariq
Hi, I love sewing, fabric, fashion, embroidery, doing easy DIY projects and then writing about them. Hope you have fun learning from sewguide as much as I do. If you find any mistakes here, please point it out in the comments.
7 thoughts on “Types of Fabric dyes and how to use them”
  1. paul
    can anyone tell me ? dying a snow ski race suit ,made of 80% polyester and 20%elastane …which dye would i use? Reply
    • Sarina Tariq

      Polyester and elastane fibers cannot be dyed with regular dyes used for natural fibers. The colors won’t stick, and also heating methods will damage the fabric. You can use disperse dye for dyeing polyester, but it has a high-temperature dyeing process. Acid Dyes can be used for elastane-synthetic blends as they have a lesser-temperature process.

  2. Oyin
    Lovely Reply
  3. KALMULA
    Good information Reply
  4. FeelingFancyDotMe

    Hi Sarina,
    Thanks for posting this info! Perfect timing: I stored some clothing inventory in my truck over the winter which then leaked and caused damage to many of the items – the black die off the paper label/price tags bled onto the cream/pink cotton blouses. I’ve been wondering if there’s a way to salvage the pieces. Now that you’ve taught me which dyes to use perhaps you’d consider posting a lesson on how to use them! Lol! Thanks again for the info…
    Cheers,
    Lisa

    Reply
    • Sarina
      Thanks Lisa; happy to know it was useful. Will do as you say : )
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