There is a thin line between Cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation, but that thin line is where respect and understanding do the balancing act. Am I using clothes that point to cultural appreciation or appropriation ? – this is the confusion of a lot of people, including me. What I have understood about it is this – cultural appropriation is when you use real-world cultural elements or traditions in a way that disrespects or misrepresents a particular culture. According to , “Cultural appropriation takes place when members of a majority group adopt cultural elements of a minority group in an exploitative, disrespectful, or stereotypical way.” In fashion, this involves borrowing clothing designs that have connections to a specific culture without appreciating the culture, emphasizing cultural stereotypes, and sometimes even disrespecting the cultural connection in some way. It is cultural appropriation, even if you appreciate the designs but refuse to acknowledge the culture behind it. Understanding and respect in mind and actions differentiate cultural appreciation from cultural appropriation.

Clothes that could be considered cultural appropriation

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Clothes with religious symbols

In 2013 Urban Outfitters came under criticism for printing the image of the god Ganesha on socks. Lord Ganesha is one of the most worshipped deities in Hinduism, and this was appropriation without caring about the sensibilities of the worshipers. A US-based online retailer was accused of hurting the religious sentiments of Hindus by selling footwear with the Om symbol. The Om symbol is a sacred symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism. Those brands who do this use these symbols for commercial gain without consideration for their spiritual importance to others. They act ignorant that religious symbols of another culture is very important to them. Disrespecting the symbols by using them in inappropriate places is no less than a crime. The least they can do is to use them in a respectful and reverential manner instead of using these on beer bottles and shoes. That does not mean that these symbols can never be used. But they should be used in such a way that it celebrates the symbol’s significance.

Clothes that stereotype and misrepresent minority communities

Some minority communities are stereotyped as exotic, and their customs are used by members of a dominant culture quite inappropriately. (eg. Native American headdresses; African animal print dresses) They are misrepresented in movies and runway shows in a certain way. This stereotyping trivializes the cultural significance of the whole community. The only aim is to profit from the culture of others. What you can do is to stop perpetuating stereotypes about certain communities.

Adopting some culturally significant clothes and accessories as your own

A case is the casual use of sacred garments like the dashiki or kimono being used for commercial purposes, ignoring their cultural and religious value. Those who protest against this kind of adoption point out that those who casually wear these clothes couldn’t care less about the importance they have on a different culture. They may be disapproving of the people of that culture using it. When they see the original use of these styles, they are not approved of and may even be discriminated against. Then the same style is adopted by others quite carelessly; for eg. casual use of Native American headdress. This is, as I said, a tightrope walk. It is all about discrimination, equality etc, and many people have differing opinions about it. For, eg. Can we never wear a Kimono because Japanese or Chinese people may think it offensive? Would Indians protest if someone out of their culture wore Sari? As far as I know, noone raises any issues, so long as there is no disrespect of the culture. In fact trying the traditional costumes is a part of the tourist attraction in South Korea and other countries. They offer opportunities for tourists to experience their traditional costumes.

Do we stop wearing jackets and pants because they belong to another culture?. What about cosplay? Does this include cosplay? In cosplay, we adopt fashion designs of many cultures, mostly that of fictional characters. So it is argued that there is no cultural appropriation involved – usually. But those who wear clothes of other cultures should avoid using the traditional attire as a mere costume and give the respect that it is given by that community. Learn the history and meaning of the cultural elements you will be using. Use them appropriately, not out of context.

Conclusion

There is no escape from cultural inclusiveness – as humans, we grow by assimilating cultural elements from around us. Cultural exchange and adaptation are a part of human evolution. But where is the borderline?

Understanding the names of different styles used by different cultures and using them only in appropriate occassions is all about showing respect for the traditions and heritage behind each garment. Learn about the history and meaning behind the garment you will be wearing. Wear it respectfully and for appropriate occasions.

Fashion designers should not steal the designs of artisans who are authentic to the culture and present them as their own. The artisans should be given credit as well as compensation. Those who feel strongly against cultural appropriation would associate strong words like exploitation, disrespect, exclusion, etc. But I wish that going forward, words like inclusivity, empathy, understanding, and respect would be associated with borrowing cultural elements. If people from different cultural backgrounds feel welcomed, respected, and included, regardless of their race, ethnicity, religion, language, gender, sexual orientation, or other cultural attributes, the term appropriation would not even be used. What is your experience about cultural appropriation?